The regulator does not come into play if you feed it directly with 5v. I don't think the 3.3v pin is an allowable input, though... I remember that the 5v pin can go either way like that, but I dunno about the 3.3v one. Personally, if you're feeding it /regulated/ 5v -- desolder the regulator. You're better off without it. It's a little four-pin SOT that looks like a transistor with a tab pin... the specific part number is A1117.
Word to the wise on the $5-8 eBay USB soldering irons -- they work remarkably well, but use ONLY with a power bank. There's a Scottish bloke on YouTube calls himself "Big Clive Dot Com" -- he has a segment from 2016 or so on these irons, and he explains why I'm saying this far better than I can explain it myself. Go watch the episode, it's here (~20min, and worth every second) --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-8D5t6TJYU
...also...
If eBay is to be believed on part numbers here -- you should have an AUO brand A070VW04 screen in that thing. If it's a stock screen, then according to what I'm looking at, you don't need my display, you've already got one that's 24bit TTL parallel.
Here's the datasheet I found --> http://www.taopanel.com/ auo/datasheet/A070VW04-V0.pdf
If youi WANT my display -- again, just pay shipping -- I can send it along. I'll get model # and datasheet upon profession of interest. It'll give you a few extra pixels, if you put it in, but you'll definitely need to cut down that ginormous bezel to fit the thing -- it looks like they put a seven inch display in a ten inch netbook, ha! (Insert inevitable intelligence-comparison joke here.) I do remember that it was from a real cheap pile-of-doodoo "eReader" tablet that my mother bought herself about three months before Borders Books fell flat... Velocity Micro Cruz R101 is the make and model. Usual horribly-cheap fare... it was probably outdated when new. It never went above IIRC Android 2.something IIRC, had a 600MHz or so VIA SoC that was probably overclocked and inevitably undercooled, and was just all-around awful to use. It positively /reeked/ of cheap.
On Sun, Feb 11, 2018 at 5:15 PM, Pičugins Arsenijs crimier@yandex.ru wrote:
Oh -- and for the keyboard -- look into the work done with custom
keyboards
and a microcontroller called the "Teensy" -- the code should be
compatible
with an Arduino Micro -- of which cheap clones can be had on eBay. To be clear, you want the Arduino MICRO with the ATMEGA32U4 in it, and specifically NOT the similar Arduino NANO with the ATMEGA328 in it. The '32U4 part has on-chip USB so you can do USB-HID stuff with it.
A Teensy could work, indeed. The issue is - the keyboard needs 24 (16+8) pins. Now that I think of it, we can use 32U4, it has 8 PCINT pins (that we can use for 8 rows) and there are 18 GPIOs remaining - enough to implement I2C (without the INT pin, though) or PS/2 - or, indeed, use USB.
I will warn you that the cheap Arduino clone boards tend to use a particularly touchy voltage regulator -- I've fried one of those boards that way, it's not hard...
Does the regulator come into play if we feed the ATMega32U4 from either 5V or 3.3V directly into VCC? I guess it doesn't.
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